RV Fridge - Get It Cold & Keep It Cold

Do you find that your RV refrigerator does not keep your food cold enough?  Does your RV fridge have its own unique smell?  Do you know how to chill down a warm RV fridge?
Many of us store our RV in places that do not have electricity for us to keep the fridge plugged in and working all the time or even a few hours before we take off for a fun-filled and safe camping adventure.
So let's talk about the care and feeding of an RV refrigerator.








1.   I hope you do not keep the fridge sealed as tight as a drum during storage.  You need to leave the door cracked open just a bit so that air can move in and out of your fridge. This helps keep the inside of the fridge dry and reduce mold build up.  Did you ever wonder what that slide button on the fridge door is used for? Well to lock the door during travel to be sure but, if you slide the button so that you are locking the fridge door while the door is being held open the slide lock can be used to keep the fridge door from closing during storage. Be sure your fridge is as clean as possible before you close the door on the RV.  Making sure the fridge is clean will help stop the growth of mold inside of the unit.  Also if possible you should use a Naturally Activated Charcoal Odor Absorber like this one; RV Activated Charcoal

RV Activated Charcoal

This little odor eater would hang from a shelf at the back of the fridge to help keep odors out.  You can also use a box of baking soda but that can spill going down the road and make quite a mess. 

2. What can you do to get the fridge colder quicker once you get to the campground or on the way?  You could buy a bag of ice and put it on the top shelf of the fridge next to the silver fins at the back.  You could buy some cheap cold packs That look like this;

Cheap Cold Packs

Freeze them (usually three) and use them in place of the ice.  Very little if any water to clean up.  Or you could get some Zip Lock Heavy Duty Freezer Bags and put ice cubes from your home freezer in them and use them in place of the bought ice. Another idea for an ice pack is to partially fill a strong zip-type sandwich bag with Dawn dishwashing liquid, close and freeze. The liquid soap stays cold much longer and it can be refrozen many times. The frozen Dawn will conform to the place you need an ice pack. Maybe a bit more water to clean up than you would like.
The Nu-Ice Freezer Pack is a  chemical freezer pack capable of maintaining a sub-zero temperature by putting the pack into an insulated environment for up to 96 hours. This is accomplished by first freezing the special pack to initiate the simple chemical reaction within the pack. 

Nu-Ice Freezer Pack

But you could do even better and help the ice or cold pack by adding an RV fridge fan like this one; RV Fridge Fan.

RV Fridge Fan

It uses 2 D cell batteries (be sure to use alkaline type) and will give you 30 days of use before the batteries need to be changed.  It will reduce your fridge cool down time by half. I use one in my TT and it does work. (just be sure to turn it off before storing the rig).

I know some of you are a bit more high tech than a simple battery operated fan inside the fridge and would like something a bit more.  I reference you here; High Tech RV Fridge Fan.

CAUTION:  Do not run your RV Fridge on GAS while going down the road.  Guys this is very dangerous for a lot of reasons and not recommended by anyone in the know that I have talked to.   I am sure someone will tell you that they have done it for years with no problems.  But it only takes one time, of a fire or explosion or both.

3. What else could you do to help your RV fridge?  You could put a fan on the backside of the fridge inside the outside fridge compartment.  I am talking about the outside compartment in the back of the fridge.  There are several types of this kind of fan.  One type uses a thermostat to sense when there is too much heat, inside the outside compartment, thus slowing down cooling, and turns on the fan.  Or there is the DIY system that uses a 12-volt computer fan that comes on whenever power is turned on to the rig (this is what I use).  Let's look at them both, first the thermostat controlled fridge compartment fan; RV Fridge Outside Compartment Fan

 There is some DIY here as well but a lot less than the system that I use.  Follow the link and read some of the user comments to better understand how this system works.

 RV Fridge Outside Compartment Fan

Next, let's take a look at the one I used; 12 Volt Computer Fan

This is a completely DIY project so please remember that.  I found a convenient place on the inside of the outside refrigerator compartment's grated grill cover and mounted the fan with some zip ties.  I ran the power wire from the fan to the rigs 12-volt power line, that I found inside the refrigerator compartment.  My 12-volt lines were the same color as the fan's wiring. The fan blows air across the fins on the outside of the fridge located inside the fridge compartment.  The power draw is so small I did not worry about it and the fan runs whenever the rigs 12-volt system is on.  The fan is designed to be used in a computer so is whisper quiet. Boy does it work.

4. So we have the fridge getting cold but how cold is it and when can I put in some food?  Well if you do not have a thermometer to measure the temperature then how do you know?  There are two kinds of thermometers one is digital and one is analog.  Let's look at them both.

Digital RV Thermometer Digital RV Thermometer

Digital RV Thermometer

The unit has two sensors one for the freezer and one for the fridge.  The unit runs off batteries and can tell you at a glance from the outside of the refrigerator unit what is going on inside and when your unit is cold enough for food.

Analog RV Thermometer; Analog RV Thermometer

 Analog RV Thermometer

This simple unit hangs from one of the shelves in the fridge and tells you when it is safe to put in your food. The negative thing is that you have to open the fridge to tell if it is ready, letting in more hot air and letting the cold air out.  I am saving for the digital version.

Well, we've got your RV refrigerator humming along but, it is time to go home and park the rig until the next time.

How can you get it cleaned out and dried out fast?  One of these guys should help; Inexpensive Hair Dryer

Inexpensive Hair Dryer

Because I do not dry camp I have the power needed to use this, to dry out the fridge and freezer fast and get going home. Darn, the ice cream is going to melt again.









Until next time.

RV Humidity -- A Real Rig Killer!

A strong title, but true.  One of the major killers of RV walls is moisture in the form of humidity.  You don't even have to be using your RV it can be sitting in storage and humidity can still be present on the inside above a safe level.  Mold depends on moisture to grow and flourish. What is a person to do?  Well, the safe level of humidity for an RV is 40% or thereabouts.  So the first thing you need to do is know your current humidity level and the best way to know that is with a humidity monitor.

Humidity Monitor

In the photo for the Humidity Monitor, the screen is showing 53% which is not acceptable for an RV.  The reading shown is more likely a Sticks&Bricks house.
Now that you know what the humidity is.  What can or should you do if it is not right.  You need to try and find out the source of the moisture causing the high humidity.  People give off moisture when we breathe, but getting rid of all the kids is not an option be they fur or not.

Next showers or taking a bath gives off moisture.  Be sure that the bathroom fan is turned on during the bathing process, even in the colder months.  Wipe down the shower and bath area to reduce the amount of moisture that is evaporated back into the air of the RV.

Cooking is another moisture generator.  Keep lids on pans when cooking, to keep the moisture down, open a window a bit to let the warm moist air out, and turn on the kitchen vent if you have one.  Many of the newer RVs do not vent the stove vent to the outside.  This is not good, as an inside vented stove hood keeps the moist air inside the RV.  Do not let a tea kettle steam longer that is necessary.  Don't leave a coffee pot running all day long.  Make a cup as you need it or the coffee pot will add to the humidity in the RV all day long.

Try to locate any seals in the RV slides that is letting in outside air and seal that area.  You can cut strips of foam insulation like Reflectix or other foam insulation.  If you find caulking around the tub or shower stall or even around the kitchen/ bathroom sink is missing or cracking re-caulk using 100% silicone sealant like shown below.  This keeps water from going in the RV wood structure or supports where, if conditions are right, mold will start to grow.

100% Silicone Sealant

If it is during the colder months and your RV has single pane windows you might add Bubble Wrap to the windows.

Bubble Wrap

To install the bubble wrap do the following.

Cut the bubble wrap to the size of the window pane with scissors.
Spray a film of water on the window using a spray bottle.

Spray Bottle

Apply the bubble wrap while the window is still wet and press it into place.
The bubble side goes toward the glass.
To remove the bubble wrap, just pull it off starting from a corner.

This bubble wrap will help insulate the inside of the window from the outside of the window to further reduce moisture forming on the inside of the window when the outside air is colder than the inside air.

Do you dry clothes in the RV by hanging them in the bathroom?  Did you remember to turn on the exhaust fan?  It is not wise to dry clothes in the RV during the colder months because drying clothes adds to the amount of moisture inside the RV.  Do you have a combination washer/dryer?  Make sure the dryer is vented to the outside.  If you do not the dryer will add to the moisture in the RV.

If it possible let the RV inside temperature drop a bit in colder weather so the air inside the RV will hold less moisture.  Cooler air holds less moisture than warm air.  You may have to dress a bit warmer, but your RV investment will thank you for being a bit cooler.

Poor air circulation inside the RV can make mold grow in drawers, closets, and even cabinets.  Keep the air moving even when you are not inside your RV.  How may you ask? You can open two or more roof vents or a roof vent and crack a window so that air naturally flows in and out.  You can add a MaxxAir vent cover

MaxxAir Vent

over your current roof vents so that you can keep your vents open without rain or snow coming in the RV when the roof vent is open. You should put your RV in storage with vents cracked a little bit to allow for air movement.

If your RV does not have LED lighting you could swap out your current incandescent light bulbs for the LED equivalent.  This will reduce the about of air heating that the hotter incandescent bulbs are known for.  There is an LED replacement light for most all of the RV incandescent bulbs used in RVs. As an additional benefit, your RV battery will last longer during dry camping with LED lighting and depending on the LED light you buy you may find that the inside of your RV is now brighter with the lights on.

OK, we have talked about what not to do and some of what you can do to reduce moisture in the RV now let's get serious about stopping or greatly reducing moisture in your RV.
1. Get a dehumidifier.  They come in several sizes and types.
The ezest one to do business with is the bead type.

Eva-Dry Dehumidifier Beads

Twin Pack resealable packaging
100% silent operation
Lasts 45-60 Days
Indicator beads let you know when it's ready to be discarded.

You can spot these around the RV and in closets, cabinets, drawers where ever you feel or think moisture may be lurking.
Next, you have the mechanical dehumidifiers.

Eva-dry Electric Petite Dehumidifier Edv-1100, White

Whisper quiet
Renewable reservoir
Compact size is perfect for bathrooms, closets, and R.V.s
Low energy consumption
One of these usually works but if you have a severe problem you may want to consider two of them.

If you have an RV more than 36 feet long you may want to consider this one.

Ivation IVADM35 Powerful Thermo-Electric Dehumidifier

Squeezes Up to 20 oz. of Water a Day From Humid Air
Very Quiet Operation Due to No Moving Parts
At Capacity, Indicator Lights Up and Device Shuts Off
Compact at 4.45 pounds, 6.8" x 8.5" x 14"
For bunkhouse RVs,  you will need two.

And if you really need more moisture removal you can use a sticks and bricks type unit.

Keystone Energy Star 70 Pt. Dehumidifier

Removes up to 70 pints of moisture from the air per day
1.3-gallon water tank with transparent water level indicator, full bucket alert, and automatic shut-off when full
Removable, easy-cleaning dust filter with a clean filter alert
4 durable, rolling casters for easy movement

 It is generally felt that combinations of dry and mechanical work the best.

Well, that should about do it for this topic.  I hope you found the information helpful and can use some of the ideas presented.

Until Next Time







And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Can You Hear Me Now? Breaker Breaker 1..9........

For this post, I would like to discuss keeping in touch with the family while camping.  Many people in the good old days, used string and two soup cans or a CB walkie-talkie to keep in touch with family members during camping.  Most of the campers in the olden time and even RVers today, nothing was or is used to stay in touch.  While some may believe that a cell phone is good enough, and it may be traveling down the interstate, in a campground in the wilderness or at the nearby lake you may find that the good old cell phone does not work, even a little.   You may find that the carrier you have is the wrong carrier for good service in the area that you are in and that the other guy would have been a better choice.  Whatever the case, today we have very small radios called FRS/GMRS that will last a long time on batteries, give you several miles of range, be quiet and can even be set up for "selective call" so only your family members will hear you when you call them in for lunch or are backing up the rig.  RVers who are backpackers take note, these little radios can have weather radios and GPS built-in as well.








Let's take a look at a few [shown below] and discuss their features and benefits in more detail.

Motorola Model MD200R

Shown above are some Basic FRS radios.  They come as a pair when you buy them and have the following feature set.  The units come with rechargeable batteries, two belt clips, charging cable, AC adapter and have a range of 20 miles over flat and open terrain.  They offer a 12hr battery life.  As you can see the unit does not offer a lot of features but it works and could be used when backing the RV into that tight site, right next to the lake.



Motorola MH230

Above is shown a step-up model of an FRS/GMRS radio.  It can run on alkaline batteries for up to 10hrs or 8hrs on rechargeable batteries.  This model from Motorola includes 11 weather channels, 22 talk channels, and each channel has 121 privacy codes, (selective call)  for privacy.  The range is 23 miles over flat and open terrain.  It comes with belt clips and 1 dual drop-in charger to charge the pair of radios at the same time to save you time.  Use one as a base station at the RV and give the other one to whoever you want to keep track of.  Additional units can be purchased so everyone who needs one has one.  This unit would be great for a fisherman to keep in touch while out in the boat on the lake.

Garmin Rino 650 with GPS & FRS



 Calling all Backpacking RVers out there.  Here is an FRS/GMRS radio that has a built-in GPS or a GPS that has a built-in FRS/GMRS radio.  This unit is not low cost, but it does show that just about any need for communications while RVing can be met with an FRS/GMRS radio.  For the fun of it here are some of the features of this radio.  The radio has a 2.6-inch color touchscreen that is glove friendly.  A high sensitivity GPS receiver, a rugged waterproof case. Runs 18hrs on a set of batteries, and has a list of accessories as long as your arm. 

While most of us will want a lower cost unit you need not suffer from little to no features.  Range, the number of channels, the privacy feature (selective call), and battery life are the important ones to watch out for.

Safety and peace of mind make the weekend RV getaway fun and exciting for the whole family and the ability to stay in touch with all members of the camping party does that for me and my family.









Until next time.  Over and Out?

What Are Those 12-Volt Sockets Good For?

We have all done it.  Left the cell phone charger sitting on the kitchen table closed the front door, made sure everything was locked up and left for our weekend RVing get away.  If you have one of those not very smartphones you know that in 8hrs or less the phone will be dead and your Hot Spot, Weather App, and every game that keeps the kids quiet during the ride will come to an end.







What to do?  Have you ever wondered what the 12 Volt Standard Wall Plate that looks like this is used for?

2 Volt Standard Wall Plate 

Or maybe you will remember this 12 volt Wall Plate with Antenna Amplifier & Switch it looks like this;

12 volt Wall Plate with Antenna Amplifier & Switch

Both of these wall plates have a 12-volt power socket just like your car, truck, or RV does.  You could plug a car charger for your phone or tablet computer into the wall plate and it would start to charge your phone or tablet computer.  Ah, but you say you have a charger for your phone already why would you need another one for the Rig?  If you remember you left it on the kitchen table and left for this trip.  OK, now what?  Well if you bought one of these 12 Volt Single Outlet USB Charger which looks like this;

12 Volt Single Outlet USB Charger

Then all you would need is either the Apple Charging Cable which looks like this;

or the Android charging cable which looks like this;

Android charging cable

and you could charge your phone, table, or any USB device and never have to worry.   You say that you need to charge two USB powered devices at the same time.  Don't worry be happy and buy a Dual USB Charger which looks like this;

 Dual USB Charger

Now all you have to do is plug in the appropriate charging cable and you are good to go.  If you need longer charging cables than 6ft you can get them up to 10ft for both Apple products and Android products.  If you would like to be able to plug the charging cable into a normal wall outlet you can buy those also.  And for those of us that want it all you can buy the USB Charging Kit Bundle  The one shown below is for Android but they have them for Apple as well.

USB Charging Kit Bundle

But they have the Apple Charging Kit Bundle as well, which is shown below;

Charging Kit Bundle

Well, that should get you going and you can just plan on leaving any of the items we talked about in the Rig for the next time you leave the charging cable and power supply on the kitchen table.


PLEASE NOTE:  The following comments may not apply to all RVs.  Without checking the wire gauge behind the socket plate there is no way to be sure that the following products can be hooked up to the 12-volt socket in your RV.

Along with the ideas above, you can use the power plug to power small appliances such as a coffee maker

12-volt coffee maker

or maybe a 12-volt frying pan.

12-volt frying pan

Maybe you are boondocking and would like to use your PS3, or some other video game or even some device that only runs on AC.  Then you would use a DC to AC converter.

DC To AC Converter

This would allow you to power Dual USB ports that can charge most phones and tablets simultaneously (Max 4.8A total output), while two grounded AC outlets (300-350W) great for charging a laptop, breast pump, nebulizer, game console, kindle, TV, DVD players, lights, iPad, and other electronic devices.

The idea here is that if the park AC power fails you can use the 12 battery that powers your rigs lights, to make coffee while you wait for the power to be restored.  While you are refueling next time at a truck stop go inside a look at all the 12-volt appliance available to the trucking community that you can use in your RV or towing vehicle. [NOTE, not all 12-volt wiring can handle 12-volt appliances.]

CAUTION:  This is not a long-term solution for power outages as your rig's battery will run down very quickly if you make dinner this way with no way to recharge your RV onboard battery now that the AC power is out.











Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Bugs, Bugs And More Bugs

Now that Spring has finally sprung, and Summer is on the way, it is time for the bugs of the RV campgrounds to rise up against their camping overlords.  I am sure that you have had your fair share of bugs either the crawling type or the buzzbomb type. I will try to give you some hints and tips on how to get rid of both types safely and cheaply.

 So let's go.

Ants

Ants we all seem to collect them either during storage or while camping. Here is a cheap and pet safe way to get rid of them both in the RV or your sticks and bricks.

You need to mix in equal parts of,

1 part baking soda

           and

1 part powdered sugar (not the granulated kind used in coffee)

You will need.
   

1 lid from any jar

Mix the baking soda and powdered sugar and put into jar lid and put out where you have seen the ants. It will not be long and the ants will be gone. So you may ask why this works. Inside of ants, there is an acid type fluid when mixed with the baking soda causes the ants to explode. If you or the dog should eat the mixture nothing much happens, it just doesn't taste good.

Cornmeal is another safe way to get rid of ants, but it can be a bit messy. Just sprinkle the meal around the nesting area or along the ant trail. In a day or so the ants will be gone.

Stink Bugs

These little devils are not native to the USA but, like many of our ancestors have immigrated to a better life here in the USA. So how do you get rid of them now that they have hitched a ride in your RV?

In a spray bottle, combine 32 ounces of hot water and three-quarters of a cup of Dawn dishwashing liquid and spray the exterior of your RV's, windows, and doors. On the inside spray around baseboards inside cabinets, closets, and any other dark area inside the RV. For an extra kick, you can use the anti-bacterial variety of dishwashing liquid, but understand that it contains additional chemicals. Of course, a good bug spray will also work but might not be safe for Fido.

Wasps

You are getting your RV ready to go for spring and you spie a wasps nest or several wasps returning to the same spot time after time. What can you do? Well spray the area or nest with WD40 and that will rid you of the nest or neutralize the area that the wasps were going to use to build their nest.

There are also a variety of commercially made glass wasp traps that claim that they are helpful in reducing wasp populations in the area. The trick is to make sure you keep replacing the bait, as wasps like fresh bait. And also, please consider using savory bait, such as tuna, as that will attract the yellow jackets and wasps, but not honeybees, which a sweet bait will. The glass traps are actually very pretty, but you can also make your own inexpensive version out of any type of plastic bottle (soda pop bottle, or water bottle). 

Follow these instructions to make your own.

Mud Dauber (Wasp)

While these wasps are non-aggressive to humans, they do cause problems to RVers by getting into places they should not be.  Like gas orifices of the heating system, hot water system, and refrigerator.  The best defense here is to plug the holes leading into these areas of the RV.  

See below for screening suggestions to keep them out of your RV.

Mosquito

The scourge of the RV camping experience the Mosquito. First, how do you keep them off you? Use Skin-So-Soft. You can purchase here Skin-So-Soft and it really does work for several hours. It is safe for kids and does not contain Deets. However during scientific tests, Deep Woods Off, proved to be the best you could buy in keeping Mosquitoes away from you. BUT it does contain DEETS. Please be careful when using Deets around children. Be sure to follow directions for use of the product.

So what about those flying around? We need to construct a mosquito trap.

Please follow this link to "Wiki How" to see how it is done. 

Make-a-Plastic-Bottle-Mosquito-Trap

Bait the trap. Mix 1/4 cup of Brown Sugar with 8oz of hot water. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool. After the mixture cools, pour into the bottom of the plastic bottle. Add 1/4 TSP of Yeast. 

DO NOT MIX!!! The mixture gives off carbon dioxide that attracts the Mosquitoes.

Once the Mosquitoes are tricked into going in they can't figure out how to get out, so they get trapped and die.

Dispose of the Mosquito trap regularly whenever the number of dead Mosquitoes does not appear to be increasing.

 You have saved the planet and your camping area from thousands (well maybe hundreds) of Mosquitoes.

We thank you!

So how do you stop or slow down bugs getting into your RV when the front door is kept closed most of the time?  You put screens over the openings caused by the water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.

Let's take each one and see what can be done.

Water heater.  You can buy a water heater vent screen, such as this one, Flying Insect Screen

Flying Insect Screen

and install it (easy DIY project) over the water heater RV vent.  I have a KZ Spree and could not find a water heater vent cover so I covered the inside of the water heater cover louvers with insect screen and used silicone to bond the screen to the metal water heater cover.  Works great.

Furnace vent. You can buy a furnace vent screen, such as this one, RV Furnace Screen

RV Furnace Screen

The kit comes with everything you need and will keep the Mud Daubers out.

Refrigerator Vents.  You can buy a refrigerator vent screen, such as this one, Refrigerator Vent Screens

 Refrigerator Vent Screens

I installed these on my Open Range 5er and use some zip ties to hold the screens in place so they would not move around.  This was a simple DIY project and will keep the bugs and Mud Daubers out.  Check around windows and doors for any cracks or small openings that may have developed and keep storage doors closed while camping and you should keep the bugs out and enjoy the indoors as much as the outdoors.

Until Next Time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Is It Level??? Is It Stable???

Is It Level??

How many times have I heard that phrase at a campground?  I can't even count them or remember them for that matter.  How do you know when your rig is level and what can you do if your rig is not?
Let's look at some of the possibilities.






The first thing you need to do is eyeball the site that you will back into or pull forward into.
Does the site appear flat?  There could be a drainage crown to the site, meaning that the center is higher than either side so that the rainwater will drain off quickly if it does rain.
Maybe there is a slope in the site toward the right or left.
All of this needs to be taken into consideration when looking at the site.
Ok, you are pulling or backing into the site and you have the support of a ground crew so getting into the site is not the problem.  The door side of the rig appears lower that the street side or is it?   How do you know? Well at some point in the life of your rig someone should have put bubble levels on it.
(For you guys with money we will discuss auto leveling equipment at the end.)

They should look like theses RV Bubble Levels

RV Bubble Levels 

If you have nothing, or what you have is so small as not to be readable then an up-grade is in order.  You should mount one of these in the front of the rig where the level can be easily seen, after taking the rig to a Walmart type parking lot and using a construction level, checking that the rig is sitting truly level before you mount the above levels to the rig.  The second level is mounted on the street side of the rig at the same height that you mounted the front of the rig level.  Be sure you have confirmed that construction level and the RV level agree that the rig is level.
Why you ask?  Because if you are more that 5 degrees out of level your RV refrigerator may not work or will not work efficiently.
But you may not have a TT maybe you have a 5th wheel and need something a bit bigger.  Enter the 5th wheel bubble level.  This is mounted on the pin box so you can see the level from the driver's seat.

5th Wheel Bubble Level

Even if you have auto-leveling on your fiver you want to start out as close to level as you can so as to not put to much stress on the self-leveling system.

Ok, you have found that the door side of the rig is low and needs to be raised up to bring that side into level.
Now the fun begins.  You will need to put something under the wheels to raise that side of the rig.  You will need what is called an RV Tire Leveling Block,

RV Tire Leveling Block

RV Tire Leveling Block

These blocks interlock so they will stay put if more than one is used and they are designed not to sink into soft soil or blacktop.  Just how many you will need to level up the low side is often just simple trial and error.
I always start with one above ground level under each tire on the low side and go from there.  Let's say that you needed two under each tire on the low side to get level.

Did you remember to pull up on them and not try to back up on them?
Better for the tires if you pull up on the leveling block rather than backing up on them.

Also, did you make sure all tires were centered on the blocks, not on an edge?
The axle of the tire or the hub in the middle of the tire should be centered on the leveling block.
Why? Because it puts less stress on the tires, that really do not like being off the ground in space.

Here is yet another way to level your Rig.  This one is a bit different that the square block used above, this one is a Ramp Style Leveling System and will help you level your rig from any increment between 1/2 inch and 4 inches.  This ramp style will hold up to 30,000 pounds.  If you have two axles then you will require two ramps per side.

Ramp Style Leveling System

The smaller ramp is used to chock the RV from moving once the RV is level.  The ramp with the holes in it, is the adjusting ramp. 

You have checked the levels on both the front and side of the rig right?  So now what?  You need to check that the fridge is level. On way to do that is to use a Torpedo Level

 Torpedo Level

This small 8" level can be used inside the fridge or on the nearest counter next to the fridge to check to be sure that the fridge is level. (Level - not more that five degrees out of level, is very important to the good, safe, and efficient operation of an RV fridge)

You are now level so what is next? Unhooking and stabilizing the rig.
Once you are unhooked you need to put down the corner stabilizer jacks.  Most travel trailers use Scissor Jacks

Scissor Jacks

This type of jack is NOT for leveling your rig.  It is to keep the rig from moving back and forth as you move around inside.  If one of the jacks does not meet the ground you can use one or more of the tire leveling blocks to help stabilize that corner of the rig.  As shown in the above photo a hand crank is the normal method of deploying this type of jack and can be a real pain.  There are two fixes for the hand crank used on these jacks.  One is the Stabilize Scissor Jack Socket for an electric or battery operated drill.

stabilizing Scissor Jack Socket

The second but more expensive way is to motorize RV scissor stabilizing jacks

motorized RV scissor stabilizing jack

This jack is remote controlled and is powered off the rig so it makes the stabilizing fast and easy.

Many of the newer 5th wheels will have will have powered corner jacks and landing jacks.  Some will have auto leveling that will level and stabilize the fiver.  But what happens when you are still getting sea sick from someone walking inside the fifth wheel or travel trailer?
For the 5th wheel, there are several things that can be used and have had success.
First is the Stabilizer Jack

5th Wheel Stabilizer Jack

I use these back at the bumper, where the bumper joins the frame of the fifth wheel.  The use of these has really made a difference in the movement of the trailer.

Next is the expandable wheel chock or X-chock.

X-Chock

This chock does double duty if you use a paddle lock to lock the chock from being removed it will stop someone from being able to steal your RV with-out a lot of work.

Your rig is now level and corner supported but, when someone walks around the inside of the rig it still does the shimmy, shimmy, shake.  Now what?  There are many suggested solutions out there to solve this problem but here is the simplest one that works.  The RV Stabilizer         

RV Stabilizer   

One of these can be added to the rear of the rig to stop side to side motion and or one can be added to the side of the rig to stop the front to back motion.  This looks simple and it is but, it does work.

The X-Chock from above will also work on Travel Trailers to help stop motion and help to prevent theft as well.

OK, now for the guys with money.  If you would like to add remote control automatic power leveling jacks to your TT or 5er, the following is a company that has received good reviews for their lift systems; Big Foot Leveling System

Big Foot Flip Down Leveling Jack for TT

The type of DIY that is required to install this system is not in the scope of this blog.  But this type of wireless remote control system is out there and for those who would like to add automatic power leveling to their rig here is a place to start.






Until Next Time

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